TCB Cathartt Chore Coat (wabash)

We are about to welcome the scorching summer in Japan but what we've been working on lately is these 2 stripe chore coats. If you look at the pictures, the two look alike but they are essentially different from each other.

One of the stripe we use this time is woven so that the white thread is mixed to make the stripe pattern and the other one is made by discharging the fabric. It's said that wabash fabric was used only for 30 years in the history of work wear. But why?

Speaking of the process to make wabash fabric, it goes like this.

Weave ecru fabric and then fabric dye in Indigo

↓

Discharge the indigo fabric in some pattern

↓

put some other color in the discharged parts

It's a long process and of course the longer it is the more expensive it'll get.

People back them must have thought maybe it's more cost & time efficient to make the similar fabric in the process of weaving, which would replace wabash with later on. We've reproduced both the style this time but the same price dynamic applies in the present day though.

It's not that wabash is better than woven stripe but the price difference is brought purely by the process. 

□Fabric
Woven Stripe ( The left one in the picture 2, appearing bluer）
3-by-1 construction, left hand twill, 9.8oz.

The warps are indigo dyed and have irregular thread thickness in each yarn. So, you can enjoy the fade like denim.

 Wabash Stripe (The right one in the picture 2, appearing dark blue）
2-by-1 construction, left hand twill, 10oz.

It's fabric dyed in indigo so it will show the wabash fade. (the fabric will fade evenly to lighter blue.)  On the discharged parts, light beige color is put in so that the stripe pattern stands out.

□Size

TK 180cm 65kg wearing Woven Stripe in 36/ perfect fit with only a T-shirt inside

Ryo 180cm 85kg wearing Wabash in 40/ enough room to put on some sweater.　

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When TCB starts a new project, a new meeting with a great vintage piece is always the trigger for us. Something I saw through show windows that I couldn't afford or some special vintage jeans that movie stars wore, etc. So, basically I look back at the clothings of my longing and I reproduce the items that I've longed for: That's basically what TCB brand is.

Another case is like the Viktor's Voice Project we did last year. We borrow some special vintage piece that is super rare and that is never sold even at the most prominent vintage shops around the world, from huge denim collectors like Mr. Viktor Fredback.

Please let me be 100% clear and honest about this. We've started the product development this time without owning the very vintage chore jacket.
What we had was the vintage heart-shaped buttons and the bib overall of 20's with the famous Master Cloth tag. The reason is simple: I've been dying to make this chore jacket for a long time and I could not wait till the good meeting.

What did we do to decide the pattern and the silhouette this time?
We own 2 Carhartte Vintage jackets from the 40's ~ 50's. Based on those jackets, we've studied the cut, the sewing to make our jacket match the 20's feel.
To be more precise about the 20's feel, we've adopted the following details on our new chore jacket
:Square collar with a joint at the center.
:Adjustable change buttons with eyelets on the cuffs and the collar.  
:Set-in sleeve
:low sleeve caps often seen on the garments of 20's or before

Not many jackets of today have the collar with a center joint because that looks a bit messy but only the plausible reason that I could come up with is to decrease the amount of yardage.

In the future, I might be able to get the vintage Carhartte Jacket from the 20's and there might be some difference here and there from my imaginary reproduction but it's like the opposite version of Sci-fi movie picturing the future life. We look back at the past and depicting each detail of the past onto our garment by studying the heritage of 100 years ago. When I could go on a time machine, I'd love to visit the Carhartte factory back then. I wonder if any other sewing workers around me would notice that some details on my chore jacket are different from the rest!

■Size 
The size chart is in the picture section. The measurements are taken from the actual one-washed garments. We receive so many questions asking about the actual measurements but the size chart shows it. It's also true that there could be a slight difference in the measurements depending on the result of the factory wash but as long as each size is made from the same master pattern, those difference will be eased off as you wear and a garment gets worn in.

■Disclaimer 
All the buttons used on this Carhartte Chore Coat are change buttons so that we recommend you take them off before washing. In case of breakage or loss of the buttons, we don't offer the buttons for free of charge.